
We left Horta at the end of the afternoon with a gentle breeze plumping the spinnaker. We coasted past the high cliffs and Faial's emerald green hillside with its Etch-a-sketch of small square fields. A pod of bottlenose dolphins arrived, much larger than the common dolphins we have become accustomed to. Some entertained us with acrobatic jumps and side flops but all were soon gone, to round up supper no doubt.
The wind began to gust around midnight. The asymetric was replaced by full main and headsail on a goosewing. It's quite a caper changing sails singlehanded and this simple swap took ages. I was glad for the exercise though simply because it kept me warm. All the while dolphins swam around us, streaking this way and that, lighting up the otherwise dark water with explosive phosphorescence.

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